Introductions

The ruins of the ancient city of Angkor, capital of the Khmer kingdom from 802 until 1295 A.D., are one of the world’s marvels. The “City of Kings,” Angkor boasts some of the largest religious monuments ever constructed; it’s a vast and mysterious complex of hulking laterite and sandstone blocks. Unknown to the world until French naturalist Henri Mouhot literally stumbled onto it in 1861, the area of Angkor existed for centuries only as a myth — a wondrous city (or cities, to be exact), its exact location in the Cambodian jungle unknown. After Mahout in 1861, archaeologists flocked here, only to be foiled by years of conflict that left the temples in the hands of the Khmer Rouge. Many temples were damaged and pillaged. Tourists were the subsequent invaders, from the late 1990s. Today the sight is mobbed, but you can still find those quiet moments in communion with this amazing man-made wonder.

The temple complex covers some 97 sq. km (60 sq. miles) and carries the remains of passageways, moats, temples, and palaces that represent centuries of building in the capital. Days spent scrambling about and exploring the temples are memorable, and this is a great place to bring adventurous kids of all ages who like to get their play clothes dirty.

The temples are served by the nearby town of Siem Reap, some 6km (3 1/2 miles) to the south. Siem Reap means “Victory over the Thais” and refers to the 16th-century victory that solidified the Khmer kingdom — though animosity between the two neighbors remains to this day. All of western Cambodia was once under Thai control, and Khmer people are very proud of their survival in the face of so many invaders, the very reason that an image of Angkor Wat graces the national flag.

Siem Reap, once just a dusty track with a few storefronts, now supports a host of large five-star hotels and resorts, fine-dining options aplenty, and the kind of good services, shops, galleries, and spas, that make the little city a new oasis of luxury in parched western Cambodia. The town’s central market is a great stop for souvenir purchases, and the nearby downtown area is abuzz day and night with fine-dining options and quaint bars and party spots.

A 3- or 4-day visit will suffice (though many do it in less time) to come away with a newfound love for ancient cultures, Asian religions, and sunsets. Good options abound for visiting more far-flung temple ruins (in fact, one of the most common complaints is about the large crowds that now visit Cambodia’s “Disneyland of Temples”) and trekking or boat trips to remote mangrove swamps and a large bird sanctuary are enough to keep you busy for a stay of any length. Bring your sense of adventure, your camera, and a youthful sense of wonder. You won’t be disappointed by amazing Angkor.

Get around:

• On foot: Most of the sights in Siem Reap can be seen on foot. For the foot-sore and sun-weary, you’ll have plenty of offers from locals on motorbikes. Only the longest rides should be more than US$1 though prices go up at night. Simply agree a price and hop on the back.
• By bicycle: Many guesthouses and hotels provide bicycles free for “round town” use. It’s also a good way to see Angkor – the terrain is flat and most roads are decent – but leave early to avoid the mid-day heat.
• By motorbike: Some motodops may be able to provide you with a helmet if you request one in advance. The rental of motorbikes to tourists in Siem Reap is prohibited. However, foreigners can ride motorbikes they’ve rented elsewhere.
• By Tuk-tuk: Tuk-tuk drivers can be hired to take you wherever you like, they will arrange meeting places with you or wait where you tell them to. They are a great way of see the surrounds without the barrier of a car window! You will not find it hard finding a Tuk-tuk, as you will be offered the service everywhere you walk on the streets, especially in the touristy areas such as Pub Street. A word of advice, pay them for their services after everything you have arranged is completed. For example, if you arrange for a later trip to the airport and pay them, chances are that you will have to find another ride. You can also bargain on the fees beforehand.
• By car: Indochina Partner Travel usually arranges a driver and car for you; this works out at about US$25-30 per day and is a good way to visit the temples if time is short.
• By rickshaw: Unlike Phnom Penh, bicycle rickshaws are almost non-existent.

Place of interest:

• Angkor Wat: Located six kilometers north of Siem Reap, Angkor Wat is one of the largest of Khmer monuments. Built around the first half of 12th century by King Suryavarman II, the temple’s balance, composition and beauty make it one of the finest monuments in the world. Though ‘Wat’ is the Khmer (Cambodian) word for temple, the westward orientation of the structure is atypical of temples. Scholars believe that the architecture and sculptures are that of a temple where Lord Vishnu was worshipped but it was also built as a mausoleum for the king after his death. The size of the monuments makes it look overwhelming when one encounters it for the first time. The following is one of the suggested plans to explore Angkor Wat. Enter through the west entrance. When you reach the entry tower, walk to the right to get a glimpse of all the five towering Gupuras. Passing the tower and the libraries on both sides of the walkway, climb down the steps towards the left side and get to the water basin. You can catch a glimpse of the temple and its reflection in the water. Go past the basin and reach the left end of the temple. You would by now have reached the starting point of the famous bas reliefs depicting scenes from various mythological stories and historic events. Walking from left to right you will come across scenes from battle of Ramayana, battle of Mahabharata, army of Suryavarman II, scenes from judgement by Yama (the supreme judge), churning of ocean by demons and gods to get Amrita — the nectar of immortality, Vishnu’s victory over demons, victory of Krishna over Bana and other scenes of battle between gods and demons. Climb the steps to reach the second tier. One can reach the third tier and the central courtyard within by climbing the steps oriented towards any of the four cardinal points. However, it is suggested that the steps on the south (right) be taken, as these have now been fitted with a handrail — particularly useful when descending. The sight of the grand monument towering over the landscape is breath-taking at any time of day. However, to maximise the effect it is suggested that the first trip to Angkor Wat be made in optimal lighting conditions, usually around 1~2 PM. Sunrise at Angkor Wat is an also great sight to witness. Hence most of the tourists tend to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat, then explore other ruins in the morning and then return to Angkor Wat later in the afternoon. The sun rises behind Angkor Wat and the best colours are seen just before the sun climbs into view. As the position of the sun as it rises varies according to the time of year, do position yourself accordingly. For example, in November-December time when you are facing Angkor Wat, the sun rises on your right hand side. Hence grab a place to the extreme left of the entry tower to see the sunrise. Sunset at Angkor Wat is best viewed either on the top tier or outside the main temple structure.
• Bayon: Built in the latter part of the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, Bayon is one of the most widely recognised temples in Siem Reap because of the giant stone faces that adorn the towers of Bayon. There are 54 towers of four faces each, totaling 216 faces. There is still a debate as to who is being depicted in the faces. It could be Avalokiteshvara, Mahayana Buddhism’s compassionate Bodhisattva, or perhaps a combination of King Jayavarman VII and Buddha. Bayon’s plan can be divided into three levels — the first two are bas-reliefs and the uppermost consists of the central sanctuary. The outer gallery depicts scenes from everyday life and historical events, while the second inner gallery depicts mythical figures and stories. In total, there are more than 1km of bas-reliefs to be viewed in the Bayon. Enter Bayon from the east. The outer gallery comes into view first. The second gallery is on the next higher level. The third level is where you will encounter many of the famous faces (and tourists). The fact that these stones are exposed to direct light makes it easy to shoot pictures throughout the day, though mid-day sun eliminates shadows. You will find fewer tourists too during this time of day. Elephants are also available to take you from the gate into Bayon for $10 per person (seats are limited and we advise you to book in advance.) The surrounding and the tall towers make Bayon a bit dark and flat for study and photography near sunrise and sunset. Hence, it is best to visit Bayon when there is plenty of light. 10 AM in the morning to around 4 PM in the evening is the stretch most people prefer.
• Baphuon: Located to the northwest of the Bayon, the Baphuon is supposed to represent Mount Meru (sacred to Hinduism), and was one of the largest and grandest structures in Angkor. Built into the western face of the Baphuon is a giant reclining Buddha, added in the 15th century after the region converted from Hinduism to Buddhism. Archaeologists had dismantled the Baphuon to perform renovation when they were interrupted by the civil war; the records for piecing the temple back together were subsequently lost or destroyed. Today it is undergoing painstaking reconstruction work, so visitors can only walk across the long terrace leading up to the main structure and around the outside base. Completion is estimated for 2010.
• Angkor Thom: The Bayon and Baphuon temples form only part of what was formerly the giant city of Angkor Thom, once thought to hold a population of one million. In addition to the Bayon and Baphuon temples, the ancient city of Angkor Thom holds a number of other sites of interest:
  • The Elephant Terrace.
  • The Terrace of the Leper King.
• Five entrance gates, one at each ordinal compass point and the Victory Gate in the east wall. The western and the northern gate are free from tourists, and climatic. Each of the gates is topped by the face of Avalokitesvara. There is a path on top of the walls, and one along the outside wall, that can be followed to walk from gate to gate. The total walk is around 13km, about 3.5 hours long.
  • The Elephant Terrace Phnom Bakheng. The first temple-mountain constructed in Angkor, with a commanding hilltop location. Extremely popular (and crowded) spot for sunsets.

Small Circuit:

• Ta Keo: An incomplete, largely undecorated temple built by Jayavarman V. The stairs at the east side of the monument are least steep and the easiest way to reach the top level.
• Ta Prohm: Built during the time of king Jayavarman VII and is best known as the temple where trees have been left intertwined with the stonework, much as it was uncovered from the jungle. It might be considered in a state of disrepair but there is a strange beauty in the marvellous strangler fig trees which provide a stunning display of the embrace between nature and the human handiwork. This is one of the most popular temples after Angkor Wat and the Bayon because of the beautiful combinations of wood and stone. Black and white film photographers especially love this site because of this and most of the stunning postcard shots of Angkor’s trees come from here; pop culture fans, on the other hand, may recognize a few scenes from Angelina Jolie’s Tomb Raider. While the temple is very popular, most visitors follow a central route and the sides of the complex can be surprisingly quiet. Note that large sections of the temple are unstable rubble and have been cordoned off, as they are in real danger of collapse.
• Banteay Kdei: Sprawling monastic complex in the style of Ta Prohm. In poor shape, but slowly being restored.
• Sras Srang: Terrace leading to a pond. Located right across the road from Banteay Kdei.
• Prasat Kravan: A little temple to end the little circuit.

Grand Circuit:

• Preah Khan: Jayavarman VII’s first capital, before the completion of Angkor Wat. Large and atmospheric, yet somewhat overshadowed by Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm, this temple is partly in disrepair with strangler figs crawling up the walls, but has some excellent carvings and fewer visitors, and is well worth a visit. The temple is some 3 kilometres north of Angkor Thom.
• Neak Pean / Ta Som / East Mebon: Located on what was an island in the now dry East Baray, this is a large, three-story temple-mountain crowned by five towers, like a miniature Angkor Wat. Originally built by Rajendravarman II in the 10th century, many structures are in poor shape, but the temple is best known for its massive (restored) elephant statues.
• Pre Rup: A temple-mountain close to and quite similar in style to East Mebon, and constructed only a decade later. A favourite spot for viewing the sun set into the jungles and rice paddies of the Cambodian countryside.
• Roluos group: The ruins here are from the ancient capital of Hariharalaya, dating from the late 9th century and thus predating Angkor itself.
• Bakong: A five-terraced pyramid in the mountain-temple style.
• Lolei: An island temple constructed in a baray, now dry.
• Preah Ko: The first temple to be built here, dating from the 9th century.

 Outlying temples

• Banteay Srei: 37 km north of Angkor Wat. This red coloured temple is well known for its intricate carvings, and is worth a half day trip on its own, since it is a bit further from Siem Reap than the main Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat areas.
• Kbal Spean: After the man-made monuments of the temples, it can be nice to get back to nature for a while at Kbal Spean. Although it is the site of numerous carvings made into the live rock of the river bed and surrounding areas, this lies at the end of a 1.5km walk through some Cambodian rainforest. There is a small but attractive waterfall that drops to a picturesque pool, all surrounded by precariously perched boulders and creeping vines. Best combined with a trip out to Banteay Srey, as this is a further 5km or so along a rough road.
• Beng Mealea: 80 km east of Siem Reap. Along with Ta Phrom and others, this is a temple which has been left to nature, but unlike Ta Phrom it has not been cleared at all. The result is the visitor clambering over ruined walls (exactly the sort of thing you are asked not to do at other ruins!) and through windows to get access to areas where nature is running riot. Lots of trees growing out of walls, and creepers hanging over ruined buildings, and consequently great for some atmospheric photos. Much of the standard walk is along wooden decking for those who don’t want to clamber. This can be taken in as part of a trip to the Roluos Group, or a long day trip with Banteay Srey and Kbal Spean, though this will entail about 5 hours travelling in total on some very rough roads. There is a $5 entry fee to Beng Mealea.
• Phnom Krom: 12 km southwest of Siem Reap. This hilltop temple was built at the end of the 9th century, during the reign of King Yasovarman. The gloomy atmosphere of the temple and the view over the Tonle Sap lake make the climb to the hill worth while. A visit to the site can be conveniently combined with a boat trip to the lake.
• Koh Ker: Remote temple established by Jayavarman IV as a rival capital to Angkor in the 10th century. It may have been the capital for just 15 years. The most impressive temple at Koh Ker is Prasat Thom, a giant pyramid spanning seven levels, offering major views of the surrounding country.
• Preah Vihear: The mountaintop temple of Preah Vihear occupies a truly breathtaking location, on the top of the Dangrek Mountains. Considered so sacred, many kings left their mark from Yasovarman I (889-910) and Suryavarman III (1002-1050) to the great Suryavarman II (1113-1150). Preah Vihear has been claimed by neighbouring Thailand on numerous occasions. In 1962, the International Court of Justice (ICJ) in The Hague ruled that the temple is in Cambodia. On July 7, 2008, Preah Vihear was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Banteay Chmar

It is an immense temple complex constructed by Jayavarman VII, Cambodia’s most dedicated builder. This temple would have been the centre of a major city in the 13th century. Left to the jungle for years, it has only recently been cleared, revealing superb carvings on its outer walls, as well as the enigmatic faces of Avalokiteshvara, also seen on Bayon Temple.

The town is worth strolling about for itself though and boasts quite a number of beautiful modern Buddhist temples.

• The Angkor National Museum: With its 1000 Buddhas it’s without a doubt of the most modern museums in all of Asia. Besides the already mentioned 1000 Buddhas this museum shows the history of the Angkor complex as well as Khmer culture and clothing using high tech displays and video screens.
• Landmine Museum: 6 km south of Banteay Srey (31 km from Siem Reap), this tiny museum was set up by local deminer Aki Ra to educate locals and tourists about the dangers of land mines. Piles of defused mines and UXO lie around the site and the guides are mostly teenagers who were orphaned or injured by mines, many of whom live on site. A very worthwhile trip that brings home the scale of the problem and shows you a slice of “real” Cambodia. US$2 entry, and donations very welcome — everything will be used to provide support for land mine relief initiatives, education and victim assistance.
• Tone Sap: An alternative trip when you are feeling ‘templed out’ is to visit the Tonle Sap Lake a few miles from town and take a boat trip past the floating villages. The fast hydrofoil to Phnom Penh also passes this way.
• Kampong Phluk: Off the Highway to Phnom Penh, is only reachable by motorbike and then boat, and is a much more authentic ‘floating village experience’ than the one close to the Tonlé Sap-ferry harbour. It takes about 2 hours to reach the village, depending on the road conditions and water level.
• The silk worm farm in Phouk: The silk Farm is a fascinating farm/workshop where you can see the entire silk creation process.
• Apsara Theatre: The only air-con theatre in town presents various traditional popular and classical dances and serves a set of local specialties.
• Spend a Day In a Cambodian Village: A unique insider looks to a real Cambodian life. Spend time with village kids at their school, harvest or plant some corn, and interact with villagers.
• Cultural Village: This giant historical park, located on National Road #6, features small tributes to all the cultures of Cambodia. A wax museum highlights major figures in Cambodian history, and there are miniatures of many national buildings and monuments throughout the gardens. Witness local dancing or a Khmer wedding ceremony at various stages throughout the park.
• Cooking Classes: Several restaurants throughout the city offer courses on Khmer cooking. For the true gourmand, check out the Paul Dubrule School of Hotel and Tourism, located on National Road #6. The school itself offers high-quality hospitality training to underprivileged Cambodians, who receive scholarships. You can support this by attending a 5-hour or full day cooking class on authentic Khmer food. It’s definitely pricier than elsewhere, but the attention to detail, cleanliness and comfort are unparalleled. It is, after all, a school for hospitality.
• The Sangkheum Center for Children: Children’s centre for orphaned, abused or neglected Cambodian Children. Buy some rice, T-shirts, school supplies, or anything (except for candy as this will do more damage than good), and go out to the children’s centre for a look at the welcoming village-like setting. The centre serves approx. 50 residential children, and 50 daytime students in the community who are determined to be most in need. Children are aged 2 – 18, and receive basic care and additional enrichment classes to supplement their public schooling.